2 comments on “Riding the waves

  1. Dermott Banana says:

    Just remember – there are millions of people out there who will never understand the surf you picture, at the glorious beach you’ve pictured.
    They’ll never experience the high of having a huge wave, a ten-footer pick them up from the sand and lift them into the sky.
    And they’ll never be captured by that ten-footer, or the next one, and slammed into the sand, pummelled underwater until they emerge halfway back to the high water mark.
    Merewether Beach – where the best of us learnt life has highs and life has lows, and whichever extreme has got you today is far better than a life where every day is glass-like smoothness, such as you might find on a quiet day on the nearby Lake.

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